Changi Tower Expedition
Nangma Valley / Masherbrum Range — 5,820m
Rising as a sharp, vertical golden spire in the upper reaches of the Nangma Valley, Changi Tower (5,820m)—often hailed alongside Amin Brakk as one of the premier big-wall granite spires in the Karakoram—presents a world-class challenge for technical climbers. Situated in the Ghanche District of Baltistan, Changi Tower is famed for its flawless granite, sheer vertical relief, and high-altitude big-wall commitments.
Key Technical Specs
| Attribute | Details |
| Elevation | 5,820m (19,094 ft) |
| Location | Nangma Valley, Ghanche District, Gilgit-Baltistan |
| Climbing Grade | Extreme Big-Wall / Alpine Rock (ED+ / VI 5.11 A3+ / M6) |
| Primary Base | Kanday Village (2,850m) → Base Camp (4,300m) |
| Best Season | June to August |
Route & Expedition Overview
Changi Tower offers continuous vertical to overhanging crack systems on firm granite. Climbers tackle multi-pitch technical routes, portaledge setups, and high-altitude ice/snow approaches.
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Approach: Fly or drive to Skardu, jeep transfer via Khaplu to Kanday Village, followed by a 2-day trek up the Nangma Valley past Mingulo Broq to Base Camp (~4,300m).
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Climbing Window: 18 dedicated days on the mountain for haulage, fixing ropes, establishing wall camps, and waiting for stable weather windows.
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Permits & Logistics: You don’t need any special permission for this expedition. Only you have a valid Pakistani visa.
Arrival in Islamabad
⛰ 540m
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport. Transfer to hotel, perform initial gear checks, recover from the long travel.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Islamabad to Chilas (or Fly to Skardu)
⛰ 1,265m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 11–12 hrs drive)
Morning flight to Skardu (weather permitting). If canceled, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass when open) to Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Skardu
Chilas to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 8–9 hours drive
Complete the overland journey along the Indus River into Skardu.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Briefing & Gear Inspection in Skardu
⛰ 2,230m
Final load sorting, big-wall hardware checks, porter allocation, and official briefings with local tourism authorities.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Kanday Village
⛰ 2,850m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive along the Shyok River past Khaplu to Kanday Village, the gateway to the Nangma Valley.
🏕 Camp / Local Lodge in Kanday
Kanday to Mingulo Broq
⛰ 3,250m | ⏱ 4–5 hours trek
Trek through green pastures and shepherd settlements along the Nangma River to Mingulo Broq.
Mingulo Broq to Changi Tower Base Camp
⛰ 4,300m | ⏱ 4–5 hours trek
Ascend higher into the granite amphitheater of upper Nangma to establish Base Camp beneath Changi Tower.
🏕 Base Camp
High Wall & Summit Period
Route Fixing, Big-Wall Hauling & Summit Push
⛰ 4,300m – 5,820m | ⏱ 18 days
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Establish Advanced Base Camp (ABC) at the foot of the wall (~4,800m).
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Fix ropes through lower slabs, establish haul lines, and set up portaledges on high wall ledges (~5,200m and ~5,500m).
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Execute multi-pitch granite crack climbing, negotiate mixed summit crests, and complete technical rappels back to Base Camp.
⛺ Portaledges / Base Camp
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Kanday
⛰ 2,850m | ⏱ 5–6 hours trek
Pack up high camps and Base Camp under strict leave-no-trace protocols. Trek back down to Kanday.
🏕 Camp / Local Lodge in Kanday
DAY 27 | Kanday to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Transfer by 4x4 jeep back to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, and celebratory dinner.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Islamabad (Contingency Drive to Chilas)
⛰ 540m / 1,265m
Fly to Islamabad (weather permitting). If flights are grounded, drive overland along the KKH with an overnight stop in Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Islamabad
Chilas to Islamabad / Reserve Day
⛰ 540m
Complete overland drive to Islamabad or use as a reserve buffer day in the capital.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Debriefing & International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Official debriefing with government officials and transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward flights.
✈ Airport Transfer
CLIMBING GEAR & EQUIPMENT LIST
Essential equipment for a safe and enjoyable climbing day
🧗 1. CLIMBING HARDWARE
☐ Climbing Rope
☐ Belay / Rappel Device
☐ Locking Carabiners
☐ Non-Locking Carabiners
☐ Runners — Singles & Doubles
☐ Quickdraws
☐ Chalk & Chalk Bag
☐ Route Description / Guidebook
☐ Rope Bag
☐ Daypack
🪖 2. PERSONAL CLIMBING GEAR
☐ Climbing Helmet
☐ Climbing Harness
☐ Rock Climbing Shoes
☐ Belay / Rappel Gloves
☐ Climbing Tape
☐ Sunglasses + Retention Strap
☐ Sunscreen
☐ Lip Balm / Sun Protection
☐ Personal First-Aid Kit
- CLOTHING & DAY GEAR
Lighting & Electronics
☐ Headlamp or Flashlight
☐ Extra Batteries
☐ Multifunction Watch
☐ Two-Way Radios
☐ Mobile Phone in Protective Bag
Hydration & Food
☐ Water Bottles / Hydration System
☐ Water Treatment Method
☐ Lunch
☐ Energy Bars / Gels / Chews / Trail Mix
☐ Energy Drinks / Powdered Drink Mixes
Clothing
☐ Wicking T-Shirt
☐ Shorts / Pants / Tights
☐ Sun Protection — Hat & Skin-Covering Clothing
☐ Insulation — Vest / Jacket / Pants / Hat / Gloves
☐ Rainwear / Waterproof Jacket & Pants
Emergency & Carrying
☐ Duffel Bag for Climbing Gear
☐ Emergency Reflective Blanket
☐ Knife / Multi-Tool
- PERSONAL & CAMP ITEMS
☐ Insect Repellent
☐ Toilet Paper
☐ Sanitation Trowel
☐ Hand Sanitizer
☐ Camera
☐ Binoculars
☐ Signaling Mirror
☐ Approach Shoes
☐ Climbing / Trekking Socks — Synthetic or Wool
☐ Bandana / Buff
☐ Required Permits & Documents
☐ Small Bag for Collecting Trash
☐ Notepad
☐ Pen / Pencil
A: Changi Tower is located in the Nangma Valley, Ghanche District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Its exact elevation is 5,820 meters (19,094 feet).
A: The optimal climbing season runs from mid-June to late August, when Karakoram weather windows are favorable and granite faces are clear of heavy winter snow.
A: Changi Tower is rated as an extreme big-wall rock climb (ED+ / VI 5.11 A3+ / M6). It requires advanced mastery of multi-pitch granite crack systems, haul bag logistics, portaledge living, and alpine mixed technique at high altitude.
A: You don't need a special permit for Changi Tower Expedition. Only you need to have a valid Pakistani Visa.
A: After driving from Skardu to Kanday Village (2,850m), the approach trek takes 2 days via Mingulo Broq to reach Base Camp (4,300m).
A: Built-in contingency overland days via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass) with overnight stops in Chilas ensure guaranteed travel to Islamabad regardless of flight delays.
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