Tirich Mir Expedition
South Face / Upper Tirich Glacier β 7,708m
Tirich Mir (7,708m) is the supreme monarch of the Hindu Kush range and the highest peak in the world outside the Himalayas and Karakoram. Situated in the Chitral District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, Tirich Mir dominates the skyline with immense relief, soaring dramatically above the surrounding valleys of Chitral.
Unlike the heavily trafficked routes of the Karakoram, Tirich Mir offers a remote, high-altitude alpine expedition into a unique geographical and cultural setting. What we offer is full logistics support β Islamabad-to-Base-Camp travel, permits, porters, a Liaison Officer, kitchen staff, and Base Camp infrastructure β for experienced climbing teams seeking an objective on one of Asia’s most majestic high peaks.
The Tirich Mir Massif
Tirich Mir Main (7,708m) | Tirich Mir East (7,691m) | Noshaq (7,492m) | Istor-o-Nal (7,403m)
Route & Climbing History: Tirich Mir was first surveyed during the 19th-century Trigonometrical Survey of India. The peak was first summitted on July 21, 1950, by a Norwegian expedition led by Arne Næss, accompanied by P. Kvernberg, H. Berg, and Tony Streather via the South Face / South Ridge route. Today, the peak remains an exclusive and prestigious target for expedition mountaineers.
Climbing grade: Advanced high-altitude mixed and snow/ice climbing β broad glacier approaches leading to steep snow slopes, exposed ridge lines, and technical mixed sections above 6,500m.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
Β
β Β Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
β Β Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
β Β A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
β Β Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
β Β Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
Β
β Β Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
β Β Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
β Β Gaiters
β Β Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
β Β Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
Β
β Β 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
β Β 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
β Β Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
β Β Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
β Β Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
β Β Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
β Β Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
β Β Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
β Β Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
β Β Long jones equivalent to Rabβs Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
Β
β Β Wool hat (ski hat)
β Β Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
β Β Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
β Β Under helmet Balaclava
β Β Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
β Β Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
β Β Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
β Β Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
β Β Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
β Β Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
Β
β Β Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
β Β Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
β Β Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40Β°F. Goose down or synthetic
β Β Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
β Β High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
β Β Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
β Β Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
β Β Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
β Β Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
β Β Spoon: Plastic spoon
β Β Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
β Β Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
β Β Lip balm with sunblock
β Β Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
β Β Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
β Β Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
β Β Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
β Β Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
β Β Hand warmers & toe warmers
β Β Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
β Β Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
β Β Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
β Β Travel Clothes
β Β Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
β Β Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
β Β Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
β Β Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aidβs, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
β Β Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing
β° 540m
Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details
π Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
Fly Islamabad β Chitral (or Drive via Lowari Tunnel)
β° 1,500m | β± 50 min flight (or 9β10 hrs drive)
Scenic morning flight to Chitral offering views of the Hindu Kush. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Lowari Tunnel to Chitral).
π Hindu Kush Heights / Pamir Hotel or equivalent, Chitral
Chitral β Final Preparations & Sightseeing
β° 1,500m | β± Rest / Preparation day
Final gear packing, food sorting, and team assembly. Staff finalize local porter bookings and district clearance.
π Hindu Kush Heights / Pamir Hotel or equivalent, Chitral
Drive Chitral β Shagrom (Tirich Valley)
β° 2,900m | β± 5β6 hours drive
Jeep transfer from Chitral through the picturesque Tirich Valley to Shagrom, the last village and traditional starting point for Tirich Mir treks.
π Camp / Local Guest House, Shagrom
Trek Shagrom β Sherniak
β° 3,500m | π 12 km | β± 5β6 hours
Begin trekking along the Tirich River, ascending gradually through pastures and willow groves to the campsite at Sherniak.
π Camp β twin-sharing dome tent
Trek Sherniak β Bandok
β° 3,900m | π 10 km | β± 4β5 hours
Follow the moraine path along the lower reaches of the Tirich Glacier to the grassy camp at Bandok.
π Camp β twin-sharing dome tent
DAY 07 | Trek Bandok β Tirich Base Camp (Babu Camp)
β° 4,720m | π 8 km | β± 4β5 hours
Trek up the lateral moraine of the South Tirich Glacier to establish Base Camp (Babu Camp) directly opposite the massive South Face of Tirich Mir. Crew establishes full Base Camp setup.
π Tirich Base Camp (4,720m)
Climbing Period β Acclimatization, Rotations & Summit Push
β° 4,720m β 7,708m | β± 25 days
Begins with camp setup and traditional ceremony. The team establishes high camps along the South Ridge/Face line, conducts acclimatization rotations, and monitors weather patterns. When a stable window opens, the team executes the summit push to 7,708m before descending safely back to Base Camp for pack-down.
βΊ Tirich Base Camp / High Camps
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Bandok
β° 3,900m | β± 4β5 hours
Disassemble high camps and Base Camp according to leave-no-trace protocols. Trek down the glacier to Bandok.
π Camp at Bandok
Trek Bandok β Shagrom
β° 2,900m | β± 5β6 hours
Complete the return trek to Shagrom village. Celebrate with local porters and mountain staff.
π Local Guest House / Camp, Shagrom
Drive Shagrom β Chitral
β° 1,500m | β± 5β6 hours drive
Jeep drive back to Chitral Town. Rest, hot showers, and celebratory dinner.
π Hindu Kush Heights / Pamir Hotel or equivalent, Chitral
Fly Chitral β Islamabad (Contingency Drive)
β° 540m | β± 50 min flight
Morning flight to Islamabad. (If flights are delayed by mountain weather, travel overland via Lowari Tunnel).
π Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
De-briefing & International Departure
β± Breakfast included
Official de-briefing at the Ministry of Tourism / Alpine Club of Pakistan. Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homebound flights.
β Departure β transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
