Khosar Gang Expedition
Southwest Ridge / Shigar Valley — 6,400m
Khosar Gang 6,400m, situated above the left bank of the Braldo River in the Shigar Valley of Baltistan, is widely recognized as one of the most accessible and rewarding 6,000-meter entry peaks in the Karakoram. Known locally in the Balti language as the “Pumpkin Glacier,” Khosar Gang features rolling high-altitude snowfields and low-angle ice slopes with minimal technical rock barriers.
Positioned near Skardu and the gateway to K2 and Spantik, Khosar Gang serves as the premier stepping stone for alpinists aiming to transition from 5,000m trekking objectives to technical high-altitude mountaineering. What we offer is complete logistics support — Islamabad-to-Base-Camp travel, local porters, kitchen crew, government permits, and full Base Camp infrastructure — allowing teams to focus on their first 6,000m Karakoram ascent.
The Shigar-Braldo Massif
Khosar Gang (6,040m) | Spantik / Golden Peak (7,027m) | Mango Gusor (6,288m) | Mango Gusor East (6,000m)
Route & Climbing History: Khosar Gang has long served as a classic acclimatization and introductory climbing peak in the Baltistan region. The standard Southwest Ridge line offers a clean, straightforward ascent over glacier snow slopes. Notably, in February 2022, world-renowned mountaineer Denis Urubko completed the first historic winter summit of Khosar Gang via a new route.
Climbing grade: Moderate high-altitude snow and glacier climb (PD+ / AD) — 30° to 45° snow slopes, crevassed glacier travel, and ridge navigation. Requires standard crampon/ice axe technique, rope team travel, and high-altitude endurance.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
❏ Gaiters
❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
❏ Wool hat (ski hat)
❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
❏ Under helmet Balaclava
❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon
❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
❏ Lip balm with sunblock
❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers
❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
❏ Travel Clothes
❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing
⛰ 540m
Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details .
🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
Fly Islamabad → Skardu (or Drive via KKH)
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 10–12 hrs drive)
Scenic morning flight over Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram to Skardu. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway to Chilas/Skardu).
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Skardu — Final Preparations & Acclimatization
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ Rest / Preparation day
Final equipment check, food packing, and local clearances. Option for an acclimatization walk to Kharpocho Fort overlooking the Indus River.
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Drive Skardu → Sildi / Trek Khosar Base Camp
⛰ 3,800m | 📍 8 km | ⏱ 2–3 hrs drive / 4–5 hrs trek
Drive along the Shigar Valley to Sildi village (Kashmal). Meet your porter team and begin the steep upward trek through alpine pastures to establish Khosar Gang Base Camp at 3,800m.
🏕 Khosar Gang Base Camp (3,800m)
Climbing Period — Rotations & Summit Push
⛰ 3,800m – 6,040m | ⏱ 7 days
Begins with camp setup, safety briefings, and a traditional puja ceremony. Climbers carry loads and establish Camp 1 (4,800m) on grassy/scree shoulders, moving up to Camp 2 (5,200m) near the snow line. During an early alpine start, teams navigate the glacier and 35°–45° snow slopes of the Southwest Ridge to stand on the 6,040m summit before descending to Base Camp.
⛺ Base Camp / Camp 1 / Camp 2
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek Sildi → Drive Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 3–4 hrs trek / 2–3 hrs drive
Pack down Base Camp following strict leave-no-trace protocols. Trek down to Sildi village, meet 4x4 jeeps, and drive back to Skardu for hotel check-in and hot showers.
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Fly Skardu → Islamabad (Contingency Drive)
⛰ 540m | ⏱ 45 min flight
Morning flight from Skardu to Islamabad. (If flights are delayed due to mountain weather, travel overland via KKH).
🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
Reserve / Contingency Day in Islamabad
⛰ 540m | ⏱ Sightseeing / Buffer day
Free day in Islamabad to explore local bazaars or account for overland road delays.
🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homebound flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
