Kapura Peak Expedition
Nangma Valley / Masherbrum Range — 6,544m (6,350m)
Kapura Peak (6,544m), located deep within the granite sanctuary of the Nangma Valley near Kanday in Baltistan, is a striking alpine objective celebrated for its sheer vertical walls, sharp ice ridges, and pristine Karakoram granite. Straddling the ridges between the Nangma and Charakusa Valleys, Kapura stands as a true world-class technical peak rising alongside famous rock towers like Amin Brakk, K6, and Drifka Peak.
Known for its technical difficulty and pristine alpine environment, Kapura Peak attracts experienced mountaineers seeking high-grade alpine, ice, and rock climbing away from commercialized routes. What we provide is complete expedition logistics and Base Camp infrastructure — including official permit clearances, Islamabad-to-Kanday transportation, local Balti high-altitude staff, kitchen crew, and complete Base Camp setup — giving alpine teams an exceptional foundation for their ascent.
The Nangma-Kanday Spires
Amin Brakk (5,850m) | Kapura Peak (6,544m) | Drifka Peak (6,447m) | K6 Massif (7,281m)
Route & Climbing History: The main summit of Kapura Peak was first climbed in 2004 by a team of prominent alpinists including Steve House, Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, Marko Prezelj, and Steve Swenson from the Charakusa side. In 2013, Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo completed the notable first ascent of Kapura South (6,350m) via the SW Ridge from the Nangma Valley (Never Ending Dreams, M4, 70° ice). The routes involve technical ice couloirs, steep mixed ridge lines, and vertical granite rock climbing.
Climbing grade: Advanced technical high-altitude alpine climb (TD / WI5 M7 70° ice / steep granite) — short valley approach, complex glacier navigation, fixed-line work, and technical mixed climbing over extreme exposure. Designed for competent, experienced climbers.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
❏ Gaiters
❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
❏ Wool hat (ski hat)
❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
❏ Under helmet Balaclava
❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon
❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
❏ Lip balm with sunblock
❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers
❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
❏ Travel Clothes
❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
A: As Kapura Peak falls in open area and don't need permit, NOC and trekking/mountaineering visa. You only need a valid visa . Skardu Expedition Treks and Tours will provide you all neccessary document for processing your visa. Granting Visa is totally the authority of Government of Pakistan.
Arrival in Islamabad
⛰ 540m
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport, meet our representative, and transfer to your hotel. Rest and recover from international travel while the logistics team manages initial Ministry paperwork.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Islamabad to Chilas (or Fly to Skardu)
⛰ 1,265m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 11–12 hrs drive)
Morning flight to Skardu (weather permitting). If canceled, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass when open) to Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Skardu
Chilas to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 8–9 hours drive
Complete the overland journey along the Indus River past the junction of the three great mountain ranges into Skardu.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Expedition Preparation & Briefing in Skardu
⛰ 2,230m
Gear inspection, load sorting, porter allocation, and final official briefings with local tourism authorities before departing for the Ghanche District.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Kanday Village
⛰ 2,900m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive along the Shyok River past Khaplu to Kanday Village, the gateway for the Nangma Valley and Kapura approach.
🏕 Camp / Guest House in Kanday
Kanday to Mingulo Broq
⛰ 3,450m | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Begin the approach trek following traditional shepherd trails through lush valley pastures to Mingulo Broq.
🏕 Camp at Mingulo Broq
Mingulo Broq to Kapura Base Camp
⛰ 4,200m – 4,500m | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Trek up past lateral moraines beneath the looming granite spires of the Nangma Valley to establish Kapura Base Camp.
🏕 Kapura Base Camp
Climbing and Acclimatization Period
⛰ 4,500m – 6,544m | ⏱ 17 days
Strategy involves fixing ropes on steep snow couloirs and mixed granite ridges, rotating to high camps for acclimatization, waiting for optimal weather windows, and executing the final summit push to 6,544m before descending safely to Base Camp.
⛺ Base Camp / High Camps
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek Back to Kanday
⛰ 2,900m | ⏱ 5–6 hours
Clean up high camps adhering to strict leave-no-trace protocols and trek back down the Nangma Valley to Kanday Village.
🏕 Camp / Local Lodge in Kanday
Kanday to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive back through Khaplu to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, equipment packing, and a celebratory dinner with the team.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Islamabad (Contingency Drive to Chilas)
⛰ 540m / 1,265m
Fly to Islamabad (weather permitting). If flights are grounded, begin the drive back along the KKH, stopping overnight in Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Islamabad
Chilas to Islamabad / Reserve Day
⛰ 540m
If traveling overland from Chilas, complete the final drive to Islamabad. Otherwise, enjoy a buffer day in the capital for sightseeing or shopping.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Final De-briefing & International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
