Cigarette Peak Expedition
Humbroq Valley / Hushe Range — ~6,359m (6,459m)
Cigarette Peak, locally known as Humbroq Peak, is an iconic, needle-sharp granite and ice spire rising above the Humbroq Valley near Hushe in the Ghanche District of Baltistan. Situated within the heart of the Karakoram range, this technical 6,000-meter-plus objective offers a pristine, uncrowded alternative to the heavily trafficked Baltoro routes, while providing panoramic summit views of K2, Broad Peak, and the Gasherbrum massif.
Characterized by dramatic vertical granite faces, sharp knife-edge snow ridges, and low-valley accessibility, Cigarette Peak is a premier target for experienced alpine teams seeking a technical climbing challenge. We provide full Base Camp logistics support — including Islamabad-to-Hushe transportation, official permit clearance, local Balti high-altitude staff, kitchen crew, and complete Base Camp setup.
Route & Climbing History: Located directly above Hushe village via the Humbroq pasturage, Cigarette Peak has drawn technical rock and ice climbers from around the globe seeking first lines on its sheer granite walls and steep upper ice fields. The standard climbing line via the West Ridge involves sustained fixed-line work, steep snow couloirs, and technical mixed climbing on high-grade granite.
Climbing grade: Advanced high-altitude alpine climb (AD+/TD / 45°–55° snow/ice & mixed rock) — short valley approach, glacier navigation, high camp setup, and technical fixed-line climbing over steep exposure. Designed for competent, experienced climbers.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
❏ Gaiters
❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
❏ Wool hat (ski hat)
❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
❏ Under helmet Balaclava
❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon
❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
❏ Lip balm with sunblock
❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers
❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
❏ Travel Clothes
❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrival in Islamabad
⛰ 540m
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport, meet our representative, and transfer to your hotel. Rest and recover from international travel while the logistics team manages initial Ministry files.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Islamabad to Chilas (or Fly to Skardu)
⛰ 1,265m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 11–12 hrs drive)
Morning flight to Skardu (weather permitting). If canceled, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass when open) to Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Skardu
Chilas to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 8–9 hours drive
Complete the overland journey along the Indus River past the junction of the three great mountain ranges into Skardu.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Expedition Preparation & Briefing in Skardu
⛰ 2,230m
Gear inspection, load sorting, porter allocation, and final briefing with local authorities before heading into the Hushe Valley.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Hushe Village
⛰ 3,050m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive along the Shyok and Hushe rivers into Hushe, the final inhabited village of the Ghanche District.
🏕 Camp in Hushe Village
Hushe Village to Humbroq / Base Camp
⛰ 3,600m – 4,000m | ⏱ 3–4 hours
A short, scenic approach trek out of Hushe up into the Humbroq pasturage to establish Cigarette Peak Base Camp.
🏕 Humbroq Base Camp
Climbing and Acclimatization Period
⛰ 4,000m – ~6,359m | ⏱ 14 days
Strategy involves establishing High Camp (~5,200m–5,400m), fixing ropes on steep snow couloirs and mixed granite ridges, rotating for acclimatization, and executing the summit push to ~6,359m before descending to Base Camp.
⛺ Base Camp / High Camps
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek Back to Hushe
⛰ 3,050m | ⏱ 3 hours
Clean up camps adhering to strict leave-no-trace protocols and trek back down to Hushe village.
🏕 Camp / Local Lodge in Hushe
Hushe Village to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive back through Khaplu to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, and a celebratory dinner with the local crew.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Islamabad (Contingency Drive to Chilas)
⛰ 540m / 1,265m
Fly to Islamabad (weather permitting). If flights are grounded, begin the drive back along the KKH, stopping overnight in Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Islamabad
Chilas to Islamabad
⛰ 540m
If traveling overland from Chilas, complete the final leg of the drive to Islamabad. Otherwise, use as a free day in the capital.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Final De-briefing & International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Complete formal de-briefing with the Alpine Club of Pakistan / Ministry of Tourism and transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
