Uli Biaho Expedition
Baltoro Glacier / Karakoram Range — 6,109m
Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) and its neighboring sister peak, Uli Biaho Prime (6,158m), represent some of the most striking, uncompromising vertical granite obelisks in the Karakoram range. Situated just west of the Trango Towers near the mouth of the Trango Glacier, Uli Biaho rises directly above the convergence of the Trango and Baltoro glaciers in Gilgit-Baltistan’s Shigar District.
Renowned globally for its iconic, sheer 1,000-meter East Face, Uli Biaho is a legendary big-wall alpine objective that demands technical rock climbing mastery, portaledge living, heavy haulage, and high-altitude endurance. We provide end-to-end Base Camp and operational logistics—including official climbing permit clearances with the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department, 4×4 road transfers, experienced local Balti high-altitude staff, kitchen crew, and complete Base Camp setup.
The Baltoro Big-Wall Massif
Trango Tower (6,239m) | Great Trango (6,286m) | Uli Biaho Tower (6,109m) | Uli Biaho Peak (6,158m)
Route & Climbing History: Uli Biaho Tower achieved legendary status in 1979 when Americans John Roskelley, Kim Momb, Ron Kauk, and Bill Forrest completed the first ascent via its formidable East Face (A3, VII, 5.8) over 12 continuous days on the wall—a watershed moment in high-altitude big-wall history. Subsequent routes on the Uli Biaho massif continue to challenge top-tier international teams with sustained vertical crack systems, high exposure, mixed ice/snow couloirs, and severe Karakoram weather.
Climbing grade: Extreme Big-Wall / High-Altitude Alpine Rock Climb (ED+ / VI 5.11–5.12 / A3–A4) — glacier approach via Askole, vertical haulage logistics, portaledge camping, fixed lines, and continuous technical rock climbing over 6,000 meters. Designed exclusively for expert big-wall alpinists.
Islamabad to Chilas (or Fly to Skardu)
⛰ 1,265m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 11–12 hrs drive)
Morning flight to Skardu (weather permitting). If canceled, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass when open) to Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Skardu
Chilas to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 8–9 hours drive
Complete the overland journey along the Indus River past the junction of the three great mountain ranges into Skardu.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Preparation, Briefing & Gear Inspection in Skardu
⛰ 2,230m
Gear checks, load sorting, porter allocation, big-wall hardware sorting, and official briefings with the Department of Tourist Services before departing for the Braldu Valley.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Askole Village
⛰ 3,000m | ⏱ 6–7 hours drive
Rugged 4x4 jeep drive along the Braldu Gorge to Askole, the final roadhead settlement for Baltoro Glacier expeditions.
🏕 Camp in Askole
Askole to Jhola
⛰ 3,200m | ⏱ 5–6 hours
Begin the approach trek following the river valley, crossing the Dumordo River to Jhola camp.
🏕 Camp at Jhola
Jhola to Paiju
⛰ 3,450m | ⏱ 6–7 hours
Trek along the Braldu River bed to Paiju camp beneath the shadows of the main Baltoro group.
🏕 Camp at Paiju
Paiju to Uli Biaho Base Camp
⛰ 4,000m | ⏱ 5–6 hours
Step onto the terminal moraine of the Baltoro Glacier and branch off toward the base of the Uli Biaho massif to establish expedition Base Camp.
🏕 Uli Biaho Base Camp
Big-Wall Climbing Period
⛰ 4,000m – 6,109m | ⏱ 19 days
Strategy involves establishing Advanced Base Camp (ABC), fixing lower ropes, hauling haul bags up the vertical face, navigating high-grade granite crack systems, waiting for weather windows, reaching the 6,109m summit tower, and executing technical multi-pitch rappels back to Base Camp.
⛺ Base Camp / Portaledges on Wall
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Paiju
⛰ 3,450m | ⏱ 5–6 hours
Clean up all wall and Base Camp sites adhering to strict leave-no-trace protocols and trek back down the glacier to Paiju.
🏕 Camp at Paiju
Paiju to Jhola
⛰ 3,200m | ⏱ 6–7 hours
Trek down along the valley path to Jhola camp.
🏕 Camp at Jhola
Jhola to Askole & Drive to Skardu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 3 hrs trek + 6 hrs drive
Complete the final trek leg to Askole and transfer to 4x4 jeeps for the return drive to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, and a celebratory dinner with the team.
🏠 Hotel in Skardu
Skardu to Islamabad (Contingency Drive to Chilas)
⛰ 540m / 1,265m
Fly to Islamabad (weather permitting). If flights are grounded, begin the overland drive along the KKH, stopping overnight in Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Islamabad
Chilas to Islamabad / Reserve Day
⛰ 540m
If traveling overland from Chilas, complete the final drive to Islamabad. Otherwise, enjoy a buffer day in the capital for sightseeing or shopping.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
Final De-briefing & International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Complete formal de-briefing with the Alpine Club of Pakistan / Ministry of Tourism and transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
CLIMBING GEAR & EQUIPMENT LIST
Essential equipment for a safe and enjoyable climbing day
🧗 1. CLIMBING HARDWARE
☐ Climbing Rope
☐ Belay / Rappel Device
☐ Locking Carabiners
☐ Non-Locking Carabiners
☐ Runners — Singles & Doubles
☐ Quickdraws
☐ Chalk & Chalk Bag
☐ Route Description / Guidebook
☐ Rope Bag
☐ Daypack
🪖 2. PERSONAL CLIMBING GEAR
☐ Climbing Helmet
☐ Climbing Harness
☐ Rock Climbing Shoes
☐ Belay / Rappel Gloves
☐ Climbing Tape
☐ Sunglasses + Retention Strap
☐ Sunscreen
☐ Lip Balm / Sun Protection
☐ Personal First-Aid Kit
- CLOTHING & DAY GEAR
Lighting & Electronics
☐ Headlamp or Flashlight
☐ Extra Batteries
☐ Multifunction Watch
☐ Two-Way Radios
☐ Mobile Phone in Protective Bag
Hydration & Food
☐ Water Bottles / Hydration System
☐ Water Treatment Method
☐ Lunch
☐ Energy Bars / Gels / Chews / Trail Mix
☐ Energy Drinks / Powdered Drink Mixes
Clothing
☐ Wicking T-Shirt
☐ Shorts / Pants / Tights
☐ Sun Protection — Hat & Skin-Covering Clothing
☐ Insulation — Vest / Jacket / Pants / Hat / Gloves
☐ Rainwear / Waterproof Jacket & Pants
Emergency & Carrying
☐ Duffel Bag for Climbing Gear
☐ Emergency Reflective Blanket
☐ Knife / Multi-Tool
- PERSONAL & CAMP ITEMS
☐ Insect Repellent
☐ Toilet Paper
☐ Sanitation Trowel
☐ Hand Sanitizer
☐ Camera
☐ Binoculars
☐ Signaling Mirror
☐ Approach Shoes
☐ Climbing / Trekking Socks — Synthetic or Wool
☐ Bandana / Buff
☐ Required Permits & Documents
☐ Small Bag for Collecting Trash
☐ Notepad
☐ Pen / Pencil
A: Uli Biaho Tower is located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier near the mouth of the Trango Glacier in the Shigar District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Its exact summit elevation is 6,109 meters (20,042 feet).
A: The optimal climbing window for Uli Biaho runs from mid-June to late August. During the Karakoram summer, snow retreats from vertical granite crack systems, and temperatures on wall ledges (4,000m–6,109m) are manageable for big-wall hauling and portaledge camping.
A: Overseas mountaineers require an official trekking permit issued by the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department, a Non-Objection Certificate (NOC), and a Pakistani Trekking/Mountaineering Visa. Skardu Expedition Treks and Tours handles all official royalty clearances, government briefings, arrangements, and local porter logistics.
A: Following a 4x4 jeep drive from Skardu to Askole (3,000m), the approach trek takes 3 to 4 days along the Braldu River and lower Baltoro Glacier to reach Uli Biaho Base Camp (4,000m).
A: Skardu flights are weather-dependent. The itinerary incorporates built-in overland transfers via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass) with an overnight stop in Chilas on Days 2–3 and Days 31–32 to ensure guaranteed connections to Islamabad regardless of flight status.
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