Hunza Peak Expedition
Batura Muztagh / Ultar Sar Massif — 6,270m
Hunza Peak (6,270m) is an iconic, needle-sharp granite and ice spire towering directly above Karimabad in the Hunza Valley of Gilgit-Baltistan. Rising on the southwestern ridge of the massive Ultar Sar group alongside its famous neighbor, Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimating), Hunza Peak is celebrated worldwide for its dramatic sheer walls, dizzying vertical relief, and pure technical alpine challenge.
Despite its low valley proximity and short approach, Hunza Peak is a serious big-mountain objective requiring technical rock, ice, and mixed climbing skills. What we provide is complete expedition logistics and Base Camp support — including Ministry permit clearances, Islamabad-to-Karimabad transport, local Hunza high-altitude staff, kitchen crew, and Base Camp setup — giving alpine teams an ideal platform to attempt this Karakoram classic.
The Batura-Hunza Spires
Ultar Sar (7,388m) | Hunza Peak (6,270m) | Ladyfinger Peak (6,000m) | Shispare (7,611m)
Route & Climbing History: First climbed in 1991 in alpine style by Swedish and British expeditions (including Mick Fowler and Caradog Jones), Hunza Peak offers striking lines on clean Karakoram granite and steep ice fields. The standard climbing routes via the South/Southwest ridge feature sustained fixed-rope work, high-grade granite rock climbing, and sharp snow/ice ridge crests.
Climbing grade: Advanced technical alpine climb (TD / 50°–55° snow/ice & steep rock) — rapid valley approach, steep couloirs, fixed-line work, and technical mixed climbing over high vertical exposure. Designed for competent, experienced technical climbers.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
❏ Gaiters
❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
❏ Wool hat (ski hat)
❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
❏ Under helmet Balaclava
❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon
❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
❏ Lip balm with sunblock
❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers
❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
❏ Travel Clothes
❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrival in Islamabad
⛰ 540m
Arrive at Islamabad International Airport, meet our representative, and transfer to your hotel. Rest and recover while our logistics team manages initial Ministry clearances and briefing paperwork.
🏠 Hotel in Islamaba
Islamabad to Chilas (or Fly to Gilgit)
⛰ 1,265m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 11–12 hrs drive)
Morning flight to Gilgit (weather permitting). If canceled, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway (or Babusar Pass when open) to Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Gilgit
Chilas / Gilgit to Karimabad (Hunza Valley)
⛰ 2,438m | ⏱ 3–5 hours drive
Drive along the Karakoram Highway past the Rakaposhi Viewpoint into Karimabad, the central hub of the Hunza Valley.
🏠 Hotel in Karimabad
Preparation, Briefing & Gear Inspection in Karimabad
⛰ 2,438m
Complete final gear checks, load sorting, porter allocation, and official briefings while enjoying views of Baltit Fort and the surrounding spires.
🏠 Hotel in Karimabad
Karimabad to Ultar Pasture / Hon Meadows
⛰ 3,300m | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Begin the approach trek directly out of Karimabad village, ascending the steep Ultar Nala gorge past the water channel to reach the high alpine pastures of Hon Meadows.
🏕 Camp at Hon Meadows / Ultar Pasture
Ultar Pasture to Hunza Peak Base Camp
⛰ 4,000m – 4,200m | ⏱ 3–4 hours
Trek along the lateral moraine of the Ultar Glacier beneath the towering rock walls of Ladyfinger and Hunza Peak to establish Base Camp.
🏕 Hunza Peak Base Camp
Climbing and Acclimatization Period
⛰ 4,200m – 6,270m | ⏱ 12 days
Strategy involves fixing ropes on steep snow couloirs and mixed granite ridges, rotating to high camps for acclimatization, waiting for optimal weather windows, and executing the final summit push to 6,270m before descending safely to Base Camp.
⛺ Base Camp / High Camps
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek Back to Karimabad
⛰ 2,438m | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Clean up high camps adhering to strict leave-no-trace protocols and trek back down through the Ultar gorge to Karimabad.
🏠 Hotel in Karimabad
Karimabad to Gilgit
⛰ 1,500m | ⏱ 2–3 hours drive
Short drive back to Gilgit. Rest, hot showers, equipment packing, and a celebratory dinner with the team.
🏠 Hotel in Gilgit
Gilgit to Islamabad (Contingency Drive to Chilas)
⛰ 540m / 1,265m
Fly to Islamabad (weather permitting). If flights are grounded, begin the overland drive along the KKH, stopping overnight in Chilas.
🏠 Hotel in Chilas or Islamabad
Chilas to Islamabad / Buffer Day
⛰ 540m
If traveling overland from Chilas, complete the final drive to Islamabad. Otherwise, enjoy a buffer day in the capital for sightseeing or shopping.
🏠 Hotel in Islamabad
International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for onward international flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
