Paiju Peak Expedition
South Face / Baltoro Glacier β 6,610m
Paiju Peak (6,610m), also spelled Paju Peak, is a towering granite and ice massif standing guard at the entry point of the Baltoro Glacier in the Central Karakoram range. Positioned directly across from the Trango Towers, Paiju Peak dominates the skyline above the famous Paiju campsite, marking the grand threshold where trekkers transition from river valleys onto the massive glacier system leading to Concordia.
Combining monumental wall climbing with high-altitude alpine ice, Paiju Peak is revered as a formidable 6,000-meter test piece. The peak features massive vertical granite walls topped by severe, snow-laden ice mushrooms and mixed ridges. What we offer is comprehensive Base Camp logistics support β Islamabad-to-Base-Camp transport, permits, local porters, a Liaison Officer, kitchen crew, and Base Camp setup β for advanced alpine teams attempting this Karakoram bastion.
The Lower Baltoro Spires
Paiju Peak (6,610m) | Trango Towers / Nameless Tower (6,239m) | Great Trango Tower (6,286m) | Uli Biaho (6,109m)
Route & Climbing History: Paiju Peak was first summitted on July 20, 1976, by a Pakistani-Franco expedition led by Nicolas Jaeger, along with Pakistani climbers, via the South Ridge. Its massive 2,000-meter South Face was notably tackled in 2014 by a Basque team (Alberto IΓ±urrategi, Juan Vallejo, and Mikel Zabalza), highlighting the wall’s status as a top-tier big-wall alpine objective.
Climbing grade: Advanced big-wall and high-altitude alpine climb (ED / ABO) β continuous steep granite rock climbing (5.10/A2+), 50Β°β65Β° mixed ice couloirs, high avalanche risk, and exposed ridge crests. Designed exclusively for experienced big-wall and alpine technical teams.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
Β
β Β Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
β Β Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
β Β A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
β Β Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
β Β Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
Β
β Β Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
β Β Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
β Β Gaiters
β Β Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
β Β Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
Β
β Β 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
β Β 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
β Β Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
β Β Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
β Β Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
β Β Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
β Β Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
β Β Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
β Β Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
β Β Long jones equivalent to Rabβs Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
Β
β Β Wool hat (ski hat)
β Β Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
β Β Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
β Β Under helmet Balaclava
β Β Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
β Β Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
β Β Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
β Β Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
β Β Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
β Β Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
Β
β Β Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
β Β Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
β Β Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40Β°F. Goose down or synthetic
β Β Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
β Β High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
β Β Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
β Β Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
β Β Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
β Β Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
β Β Spoon: Plastic spoon
β Β Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
β Β Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
β Β Lip balm with sunblock
β Β Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
β Β Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
β Β Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
β Β Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
β Β Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
β Β Hand warmers & toe warmers
β Β Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
β Β Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
β Β Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
β Β Travel Clothes
β Β Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
β Β Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
β Β Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
β Β Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aidβs, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
β Β Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing
β° 540m
Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details
π Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
Fly Islamabad β Skardu (or Drive via KKH)
β° 2,230m | β± 45 min flight (or 10β12 hrs drive)
Scenic morning flight over Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram to Skardu. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway to Chilas/Skardu).
π Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Skardu β Final Preparations & Sightseeing
β° 2,230m | β± Rest / Preparation day
Final equipment check, food sorting, and team assembly. Staff finalize porter bookings, equipment distribution, and government clearances.
π Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Drive Skardu β Askole Village
β° 3,000m | β± 6β7 hours drive
Rugged 4x4 jeep safari through the Shigar and Braldo valleys to Askole, the final village and gateway to the Baltoro Glacier.
π Camp / Local Lodge, Askole
Trek Askole β Jhola
β° 3,200m | π 18 km | β± 6β7 hours
Begin trekking along the Braldo River, crossing the Dumordo River via suspension bridge to reach the campsite at Jhola.
π Camp β twin-sharing dome tent
Trek Jhola β Paiju (Base Camp Setup)
β° 3,450m | π 20 km | β± 6β7 hours
Trek along the Braldo Valley floor until reaching the shaded oasis of Paiju campsite (3,450m), situated directly at the foot of Paiju Peak and the snout of the Baltoro Glacier. Establish main Base Camp.
π Paiju Base Camp (3,450m)
Climbing Period β Big-Wall Hauling, High Camps & Summit Push
β° 3,450m β 6,610m | β± 15 days
Begins with camp setup and a traditional puja ceremony. The team establishes ABC at the base of the wall, fixes lines through lower rock bands or couloirs, and sets up high bivouac camps on ledges/ridges (~5,300m and ~6,000m). When a stable weather window opens, climbers commit to the final mixed headwall to reach the 6,610m summit before rappelling back down the face.
βΊ Paiju Base Camp / ABC / Wall Bivouacs
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Jhola
β° 3,200m | β± 6β7 hours
Disassemble high camps and Base Camp according to strict leave-no-trace protocols. Trek back down the Braldo Valley to Jhola.
π Camp at Jhola
Trek Jhola β Askole Village
β° 3,000m | β± 6β7 hours
Complete the return trek to Askole village. Celebrate with local Balti porters and expedition staff.
π Local Guest House / Camp, Askole
Drive Askole β Skardu
β° 2,230m | β± 6β7 hours drive
Jeep drive back to Skardu through the Braldo and Shigar valleys. Rest, hot showers, and celebratory dinner.
π Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Fly Skardu β Islamabad (Contingency Drive)
β° 540m | β± 45 min flight
Morning flight to Islamabad. (If flights are delayed due to mountain weather, travel overland via KKH).
π Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
International Departure
β± Breakfast included
Β Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homebound flights.
β Departure β transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
