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Mitre Peak Expedition

Climbing Equipment and Gear List

Mountain climbing Gears

Β 

❏  Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )

❏  Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)

❏  A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.

❏  Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular

❏  Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

 

Mountaineering boots

Β 

❏  Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent

❏  Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection

❏  Gaiters

❏  Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

❏  Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs

 

 

Body Layers:

Β 

❏  2 merino base layers: top / bottom set

❏  1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear

❏  Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair

❏  Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers

❏  Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable

❏  Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable

❏  Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers

❏  Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent

❏  Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2

❏ Β Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

 

 

Headgear and Hand wear:

Β 

❏  Wool hat (ski hat)

❏  Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day

❏  Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun

❏  Under helmet Balaclava

❏  Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around

❏  Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds

❏  Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs

❏  Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind

❏  Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind

❏  Expedition Mitts for bad weather

 

 

Personal Gear:

Β 

❏  Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.

❏  Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.

❏  Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic

❏  Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.

❏  High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.

❏  Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.

❏  Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles

❏  Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking

❏  Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast

❏  Spoon: Plastic spoon

❏  Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night

❏  Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above

❏  Lip balm with sunblock

❏  Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity

❏  Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening

❏  Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)

❏  Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent

 

❏  Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel

❏  Hand warmers & toe warmers

❏  Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)

❏  Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards

❏  Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)

❏  Travel Clothes

❏  Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment

❏  Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc

❏  Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.

❏ Β Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc

❏  Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone

 

Q1: Where is Mitre Peak located and what is its official elevation?
A: Mitre Peak stands at an elevation of 6,010 meters (19,718 feet) at Concordia in the Baltoro region of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. It sits directly at the junction of the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen glaciers, across from K2 and Broad Peak.
Q2: Who first climbed Mitre Peak and when was it summitted?
A: Mitre Peak was first summitted in 1980 by French alpinist Ivan Ghirardini in a solo alpine-style ascent. Due to its steep, technical rock walls, it remains one of the least frequently summitted 6,000m peaks along the Baltoro trek.
Q3: How technical is the Mitre Peak Expedition compared to other 6,000m peaks?
A: Mitre Peak is considerably more technical than non-technical snow peaks like Khosar Gang or Minglik Sar. Climbing Mitre Peak requires sustained 50°–55Β° ice climbing, roped alpine rock climbing up to grade V, gear placement, multi-pitch rappelling, and steep exposure
Q4: How much does a Mitre Peak permit cost and how is an NOC processed?
A: Climbing permits for 6,000m peaks is not required, however, you need trekking visa and permit for this expedition because it falls in restricted areas . Skardu Expedition Treks and Tours manages all permit applications prior to departure.
Q5: What is the best season to climb Mitre Peak at Concordia?
A: The optimal window for a Mitre Peak expedition is during the Karakoram summer season from late June through August. July provides stable weather and snow conditions along the Baltoro Glacier and upper rock ridges.
Q6: What climbing equipment and experience are required for Mitre Peak?
A: Climbers need advanced alpine experience on steep rock and ice. Required gear includes technical ice tools, crampons, rock protection (cams, nuts, pitons), half/single ropes, harness, helmet, double boots, and cold-weather down suits or layers.
Q7: Can a Mitre Peak expedition be combined with the K2 Base Camp trek?
A: Yes, because Mitre Peak Base Camp is located directly at Concordia along the main K2 Base Camp trekking route, climbers acclimatize naturally on the multi-day approach trek through the Baltoro Glacier before attempting the summit.
Day 1

Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing

β›° 540m

Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details

🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 2

Fly Islamabad β†’ Skardu (or Drive via KKH)

β›° 2,230m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 10–12 hrs drive)

Scenic morning flight over Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram to Skardu. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway to Chilas/Skardu).

🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 3

Skardu β€” Final Preparations & Sightseeing

β›° 2,230m | ⏱ Rest / Preparation day

Final gear check, food sorting, and team assembly. Staff complete porter bookings, equipment distribution, and local government clearances.

🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 4

Drive Skardu β†’ Askole Village

β›° 3,000m | ⏱ 6–7 hours drive

Rugged 4x4 jeep safari through the Shigar and Braldo valleys to Askole, the final village and gateway to the Baltoro Glacier.

πŸ• Camp / Local Lodge, Askole

Day 5

Trek Askole β†’ Jhola

β›° 3,200m | πŸ“ 18 km | ⏱ 6–7 hours

Begin trekking along the Braldo River, crossing the Dumordo River via suspension bridge to reach the campsite at Jhola.

πŸ• Camp β€” twin-sharing dome tent

Day 6

Trek Jhola β†’ Paiju

β›° 3,450m | πŸ“ 20 km | ⏱ 6–7 hours

Trek along the river valley with views of the Trango Towers appearing in the distance, camping at the shaded oasis of Paiju.

πŸ• Camp β€” twin-sharing dome tent

Day 7

Trek Paiju β†’ Urdukas

β›° 4,050m | πŸ“ 15 km | ⏱ 7–8 hours

Step onto the immense snout of the Baltoro Glacier. Ascend the lateral moraine to Urdukas, offering towering views of Cathedral Peak and the Trango group.

πŸ• Camp β€” twin-sharing dome tent

Day 8

Trek Urdukas β†’ Goro II

β›° 4,380m | πŸ“ 12 km | ⏱ 5–6 hours

Trek along the medial moraine of the Baltoro Glacier, surrounded by Masherbrum and Tower of Mustagh, camping on the glacier surface at Goro II.

πŸ• Camp β€” glacier dome tents

Day 9

Trek Goro II β†’ Concordia (Mitre Base Camp)

β›° 4,600m | πŸ“ 12 km | ⏱ 4–5 hours

Trek to Concordia (4,600m), the magnificent amphitheater of 8,000m peaks. Establish Base Camp directly at the base of Mitre Peak.

πŸ• Mitre Peak Base Camp / Concordia (4,600m)

Day 10-18

Climbing Period β€” Scouting, High Camp & Summit Push

β›° 4,600m – 6,010m | ⏱ 9 days

Begins with camp setup and traditional ceremony. The team conducts reconnaissance on the lower rock bands and establishes High Camp at ~5,300m near the ridge shoulder. During an early alpine start, climbers negotiate 50°–55Β° ice gullies and technical rock pitches to reach the knife-edge 6,010m summit of Mitre Peak before rappelling safely back to Base Camp.

β›Ί Base Camp / High Bivouac

Day 19

Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Goro II

β›° 4,380m | ⏱ 4–5 hours

Disassemble camps following strict leave-no-trace protocols. Trek down the Baltoro Glacier from Concordia to Goro II.

πŸ• Glacier Camp at Goro II

Day 20

Trek Goro II β†’ Bardumal / Paiju

β›° 3,450m | ⏱ 6–7 hours

Continue descending the Baltoro Glacier past Urdukas to Paiju campsite.

πŸ• Camp at Paiju

Day 21

Trek Paiju β†’ Askole

β›° 3,000m | ⏱ 7–8 hours

Complete the final trekking leg along the Braldo Valley to Askole village. Celebrate with local Balti porters and staff.

🏠 Local Guest House / Camp, Askole

Day 22

Drive Askole β†’ Skardu

β›° 2,230m | ⏱ 6–7 hours drive

Jeep drive back to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, and celebratory team dinner.

🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 23

Fly Skardu β†’ Islamabad (Contingency Drive)

β›° 540m | ⏱ 45 min flight

Morning flight to Islamabad. (If flights are delayed due to mountain weather, travel overland via KKH).

🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 24

International Departure

⏱ Breakfast included

Official de-briefing with the Alpine Club of Pakistan / Ministry of Tourism. Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homebound flights.

✈ Departure β€” transfer to airport

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