Laila Peak Expedition
Northwest Face / Gondogoro Valley — 6,096m
Laila Peak (6,096m) is widely celebrated as one of the most aesthetic and recognizable spires in the world. Rising like a sharp granite-and-ice needle directly above the Gondogoro Glacier in the Hushe Valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Laila Peak features a distinctive spear-like silhouette with a uniform 45-to-55-degree Northwest Face.
Positioned near the legendary K2 and Gondogoro La circuit, Laila Peak serves as an ideal intermediate objective for technical alpinists, ski mountaineers, and climbers transitioning from 5,000m peaks to technical 6,000m Karakoram ascents. What we offer is complete logistics support — Islamabad-to-Base-Camp travel, permits, porters, kitchen staff, and full Base Camp infrastructure — for small alpine teams aiming for this iconic Karakoram summit.
The Hushe-Gondogoro Spires
Laila Peak (6,096m) | Masherbrum (7,821m) | K6 / Baltistan Peak (7,281m) | Trinity Peaks (6,700m)
Route & Climbing History: Laila Peak was first climbed unofficially in 1987 by British climbers Simon Yates, Mark Miller, and Simon Parkes via the Northwest Face. The first official permit ascent was made in 2012 by a French team including Frederik Erickson, followed by the historic first winter ascent in 2013 by Alex Txikon and José Fernández. The Northwest Face remains the classic line for both mountaineering and steep ski descents.
Climbing grade: Technical high-altitude snow and ice climbing (TD / 55° ice and mixed) — sustained 45° to 55° snow/ice slopes over 1,500 vertical meters. Requires proficiency in crampon technique, front-pointing, and fixed/roped ice travel.
Climbing Equipment and Gear List
Mountain climbing Gears
❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )
❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)
❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.
❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular
❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8
Mountaineering boots
❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent
❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection
❏ Gaiters
❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs
❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs
Body Layers:
❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set
❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear
❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair
❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers
❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable
❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers
❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent
❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2
❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs
Headgear and Hand wear:
❏ Wool hat (ski hat)
❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day
❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun
❏ Under helmet Balaclava
❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around
❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds
❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs
❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind
❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind
❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather
Personal Gear:
❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.
❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.
❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic
❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.
❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.
❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles
❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking
❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast
❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon
❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night
❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above
❏ Lip balm with sunblock
❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity
❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening
❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)
❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent
❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel
❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers
❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)
❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards
❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)
❏ Travel Clothes
❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment
❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc
❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.
❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc
❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone
Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing
⛰ 540m
Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details
🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
Fly Islamabad → Skardu (or Drive via KKH)
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 10–12 hrs drive)
Scenic morning flight over Nanga Parbat and the Karakoram to Skardu. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway to Chilas/Skardu).
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Skardu — Final Preparations & Sightseeing
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ Rest / Preparation day
Final equipment and food packing for the Hushe trek. Staff complete local porter bookings and government clearances.
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Drive Skardu → Hushe Village
⛰ 3,050m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep safari across the Indus and Shyok rivers through Khaplu into the Hushe Valley, passing traditional Balti villages.
🏕 Camp / Local Lodge, Hushe
Trek Hushe → Saicho
⛰ 3,350m | 📍 10 km | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Begin trekking along the Hushe River to Saicho, a lush riverside campsite at the junction of the Charakusa and Gondogoro valleys.
🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent
Trek Saicho → Laila Peak Base Camp
⛰ 4,535m | 📍 8 km | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Trek up the moraine along the Gondogoro Glacier to establish Laila Peak Base Camp (4,535m) directly beneath the mountain's needle-like spire.
🏕 Laila Peak Base Camp (4,535m)
Climbing Period — Acclimatization, Rotations & Summit Push
⛰ 4,535m – 6,096m | ⏱ 11 days
Begins with camp setup and a traditional puja ceremony. The team establishes High Camp at ~5,700m near the bergschrund and monitors snow stability. During an alpine night start, climbers navigate the 45° to 55° ice face to reach the 6,096m summit before rappelling back to High Camp and Base Camp.
⛺ Laila Peak Base Camp / High Camp
Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Saicho
⛰ 3,350m | ⏱ 4–5 hours
Disassemble high camps and Base Camp according to leave-no-trace protocols. Trek back down the moraine to Saicho.
🏕 Camp at Saicho
Trek Saicho → Hushe Village
⛰ 3,050m | ⏱ 3–4 hours
Complete the return trek to Hushe village. Celebrate with local porters and trekking crew.
🏠 Local Guest House / Camp, Hushe
Drive Hushe → Skardu via Khaplu
⛰ 2,230m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive
Jeep drive back through Khaplu to Skardu. Rest, hot showers, and hotel stay.
🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu
Fly Skardu → Islamabad (Contingency Drive)
⛰ 540m | ⏱ 45 min flight
Morning flight to Islamabad. (If flights are delayed due to weather, travel overland via KKH).
🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent
De-briefing & International Departure
⏱ Breakfast included
Official de-briefing with the Alpine Club of Pakistan / Ministry of Tourism. Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for homebound flights.
✈ Departure — transfer to airport
Affiliated with & Licence
