M.ASHAR

Passu Sar— 7,478m

Passu Peak (7,478m / 7,284m), officially known as Passu Sar, is a high summit in the Batura Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram. Dominating the skyline of Upper Hunza above Passu village, the mountain sits on the ridge west of the Karakoram Highway, surrounded by the Passu, Batura, and Ghulkin glaciers.

Passu Peak serves as an ideal intermediate peak for mountaineers building toward 8,000-meter objectives. While technically less complex than neighboring Ultar Sar or Masherbrum, the climb involves navigating heavily crevassed glacier ice falls and high-altitude snow slopes. What we offer is complete Base Camp logistics support — Islamabad-to-Base-Camp transport, permits, porters, a Liaison Officer, kitchen staff, and Base Camp setup.

The Batura Massif

Batura Sar / Batura I (7,885m) | Passu Peak / Passu Sar (7,478m) | Shispare (7,619m) | Kampir Dior (7,611m)

Route & Climbing History: Passu Peak was first attempted by a joint Pakistani-Japanese expedition in August 1978. The standard route traverses up from the Passu Glacier across the Patundas high ridge. Subsequent ascents have followed the moderate snow ridges from Advanced Base Camp through three high camps.

Climbing grade: Moderate to advanced snow/ice climbing (AD) — heavily crevassed ice fall navigation between ABC and Camp 1, followed by continuous snow ridge slopes up to 45°.

Climbing Equipment and Gear List

Mountain climbing Gears

❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )

❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)

❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.

❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular

❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

Mountaineering boots

❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent

❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection

❏ Gaiters

❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs

Body Layers:

❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set

❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear

❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair

❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers

❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable

❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable

❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers

❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent

❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2

❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

❏ Wool hat (ski hat)

❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day

❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun

❏ Under helmet Balaclava

❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around

❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds

❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs

❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind

❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind

❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.

❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.

❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic

❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.

❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.

❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.

❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles

❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking

❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast

❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon

❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night

❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above

❏ Lip balm with sunblock

❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity

❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening

❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)

❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent

❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel

❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers

❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)

❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards

❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)

❏ Travel Clothes

❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment

❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc

❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.

❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc

❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone

Q1: Where is Passu Peak located and what is its height?

A: Passu Peak (Passu Sar) stands at an elevation of 7,478 meters (24,528 feet) in the Batura Muztagh sub-range of the Karakoram. It is located in the Hunza District of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan, directly west of Passu village and the Karakoram Highway.

Q2: Who first summitted Passu Peak and when was it climbed?

A: Passu Peak was first climbed on August 7, 1978, by a joint Pakistani and Japanese expedition. A subsequent notable ascent was made in August 1994 by a German team consisting of Max Wallner, Dirk Naumann, Ralf Lehmann, and Volker Wurnig.

Q3: How hard is the Passu Peak Expedition compared to other Karakoram 7,000m peaks?

A: Passu Peak is rated as a moderate to technical 7,000m climb. While the upper snow ridge is straightforward, navigating the heavily crevassed ice fall between Advanced Base Camp and Camp 1 requires fixed ropes, crampon technique, and glacier navigation skills.

Q4: How much does a Passu Peak climbing permit cost and how do you apply for an NOC?

A: Mountaineering permits and royalty fees for Passu Peak are managed by the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department. Overseas climbers require Non-Objection Certificates (NOC), visa support, and an assigned Liaison Officer (LO). Skardu Expedition Treks and Tours manages all permit applications 60 days prior to departure.

Q5: What is the best month to climb Passu Peak in Upper Hunza?

A: The optimal window for a Passu Peak expedition is during the Karakoram summer season from late June through August. July provides stable weather and optimal snowpack conditions on the upper glacier routes.

Q6: What climbing experience is required for a Passu Peak expedition package?

A: Climbers need prior experience on 5,000m–6,000m technical peaks, including proficiency with fixed ropes, ice axe and crampon techniques, crevassed glacier travel, and high-altitude endurance.

Q7: How long is the trek to Passu Peak Base Camp?

A: The trek to Passu Base Camp takes approximately 3 days from Borith Lake. The approach route traverses Luzdhur and Patundas Meadows (4,200m), offering an scenic approach trek before establishing Base Camp at 4,300m.

Day 1

Arrive in Islamabad & Expedition Briefing

⛰ 540m

Our team will receive you at Islamabad International Airport with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Share flight details.

🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 2

Fly Islamabad → Gilgit (or Drive via KKH)

⛰ 1,500m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 10–12 hrs drive)

Scenic morning flight over the Karakoram to Gilgit. (If weather delays the flight, travel overland via the Karakoram Highway to Chilas/Gilgit). Drive to Karimabad or Gulmit in Upper Hunza.

🏠 Marco Polo Inn / Gulmit Continental or equivalent, Upper Hunza

Day 3

Upper Hunza — Final Preparations & Sightseeing

⛰ 2,500m | ⏱ Rest / Preparation day

Final gear check, food sorting, and team assembly overlooking the Passu Cones. Staff finalize porter bookings and local clearances.

🏠 Marco Polo Inn / Gulmit Continental or equivalent, Upper Hunza

Day 4

Drive Borith Lake → Trek Luzdhur

⛰ 3,660m | 📍 10 km | ⏱ 4–5 hours

Short jeep drive to Borith Lake, the trailhead. Begin trekking along the southern moraine of the Passu Glacier to Luzdhur camp.

🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 5

Trek Luzdhur → Patundas Meadows

⛰ 4,200m | 📍 8 km | ⏱ 4–5 hours

Ascend the steep zigzag trail to the high alpine ridge of Patundas Meadows (4,200m), offering panoramic views of Shispare, Batura Sar, and Passu Peak.

🏕 Camp — Patundas Meadows

Day 6

Trek Patundas Meadows → Passu Base Camp

⛰ 4,300m | 📍 6 km | ⏱ 3–4 hours

Trek along the ridge and moraine to establish Passu Peak Base Camp at 4,300m. Kitchen staff and crew establish full Base Camp setup.

🏕 Passu Base Camp (4,300m)

Day 7-26

Climbing Period — Acclimatization, Rotations & Summit Push

⛰ 4,300m – 7,478m | ⏱ 20 days

Begins with camp setup and a traditional puja ceremony. Climbers fix ropes through ice fall sections, carry loads, establish high camps along the snow ridge, and conduct acclimatization rotations. When a stable weather window opens, the team pushes to the 7,478m summit before descending to Base Camp.

⛺ Passu Base Camp / High Camps

Day 27

Base Camp Pack-Up & Trek to Luzdhur

⛰ 3,660m | ⏱ 4–5 hours

Disassemble high camps and Base Camp according to leave-no-trace protocols. Trek down via Patundas to Luzdhur.

🏕 Camp at Luzdhur

Day 28

Trek Luzdhur → Borith Lake → Drive Hunza

⛰ 2,500m | ⏱ 3–4 hours trek / 1 hour drive

Complete the return trek to Borith Lake and drive to Karimabad or Gulmit. Celebrate with porters and staff.

🏠 Hotel in Karimabad / Gulmit

Day 29

Drive Hunza → Gilgit / Chilas

⛰ 1,500m | ⏱ 5–6 hours drive

Drive south along the Karakoram Highway to Gilgit or Chilas.

🏠 Hotel stay

Day 30

Fly / Drive Gilgit → Islamabad

⛰ 540m | ⏱ 45 min flight (or 10–12 hrs drive)

Morning flight to Islamabad (or overland drive via KKH/Babusar Pass).