Gasherbrum V is the third-highest peak in the Gasherbrum massif and remains one of the great unclimbed-style challenges of the Karakoram. The approach follows the famous Baltoro Glacier to Concordia, the same spectacular route used for K2, Broad Peak and the other Gasherbrum peaks.

Only one successful ascent of Gasherbrum V has been recorded. In 2014, South Korean climbers Ahn Chi-young and Seong Nak-jong reached the summit via the South Face in alpine style. Since there is no established commercial route to the summit, Gasherbrum V remains a serious and genuinely exploratory objective.

We want to be clear about what this expedition is and what it is not. Unlike our K2 and Nanga Parbat expeditions, there is no fixed-camp system, rope-fixing team or established guided summit route on Gasherbrum V. We provide the complete logistics needed to reach and establish Base Camp, while the climbing team takes responsibility for planning and leading the ascent above Base Camp.

Our support includes travel from Islamabad to Base Camp, permits, porters, Liaison Officer, kitchen staff and Base Camp infrastructure. From Base Camp onward, the climb is entirely in the hands of the expedition team.

This expedition is designed for a small team of highly experienced alpine climbers with strong technical skills in ice and mixed climbing. The only known route involves climbing around WI4/5 and M4 terrain, so previous experience on serious technical alpine routes is essential.

Gasherbrum V is not a conventional guided summit expedition. It requires independence, strong decision-making, technical ability and, perhaps most importantly, the patience to wait for the right weather window. For climbers looking for a genuine adventure in one of the less-explored corners of the Karakoram, it offers a rare opportunity to take on a serious and demanding objective.

Climbing Equipment and Gear List

Mountain climbing Gears

❏ Helmet ( Black diamond, Petzel )

❏ Alpine Ice Axe (65-70cm)

❏ A mountaineering harness, with adjustable leg loops.

❏ Carabiners: 3 locking and 6 regular

❏ Rappel device: ATC or figure 8

Mountaineering boots

❏ Mountaineering boots suitable for above 6000m; La Sportiva Gsm2 or equivalent

❏ Hiking shoes for the trek to base camp with ankle protection

❏ Gaiters

❏ Thermal mountaineering socks or equivalent: 6 pairs

❏ Liner socks or equivalent: 3 pairs

Body Layers:

❏ 2 merino base layers: top / bottom set

❏ 1 mid layer top: breathable Underwear

❏ Lightweight Nylon Pants: 1 pair

❏ Hooded Soft Shell jacket To be worn over other layers

❏ Soft Shell Guide Pants: Gore Tex and breathable

❏ Hooded Hard Shell: Gore Tex and breathable

❏ Hard Shell Pants: Gore Tex and breathable, big enough to wear over your guide trousers

❏ Insulated Down Jacket with hood: North Face Himalayan parka or equivalent

❏ Insulated synthetic Pants: Worn primarily when climbing below Camp 2

❏ Long jones equivalent to Rab’s Polartec or equivalent: 2 pairs

Headgear and Hand wear:

❏ Wool hat (ski hat)

❏ Sunhat: To shade your face / neck from the sun on a hot day

❏ Buff: To protect your neck / face from the sun

❏ Under helmet Balaclava

❏ Glacier glasses: Full protection with side covers or wrap around

❏ Ski goggles: To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds

❏ Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day; 2 pairs

❏ Soft shell gloves: To wear for moderate cold / wind

❏ Shell glove with insulated liner: To wear for severe cold / strong wind

❏ Expedition Mitts for bad weather

Personal Gear:

❏ Expedition Backpack: 65L pack should be large enough.

❏ Trekking Backpack: To carry on the trek to base camp. Simple and light.

❏ Sleeping Bag: Rated to at least -40°F. Goose down or synthetic

❏ Compression stuff sacks: 3 large ones; for reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc., in your pack.

❏ High Quality sleeping pad (1 for base camp and 1 for high camps): Full length is preferred.

❏ Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.

❏ Trekking poles with snow baskets: Adjustable poles

❏ Cup: Plastic insulated cup for drinking

❏ Bowl: A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast

❏ Spoon: Plastic spoon

❏ Head torch: 1 normal for base camp and 1 with remote battery systems for climbing at night. This will be used whilst climbing at night

❏ Sunscreen: SPF 50 or above

❏ Lip balm with sunblock

❏ Water bottles: 2 wide mouth bottles with 1 liter capacity

❏ Water bottle parkas (2): fully insulated with zip opening

❏ Thermos: 1 litre (buy a good ones to keep your water warm for longer hours)

❏ Pee bottle: 1 litre minimum bottle for convenience at night in the tent

❏ Toiletry bag: Include toilet paper and hand sanitizer and small towel

❏ Hand warmers & toe warmers

❏ Pen Knife or multi tool (optional)

❏ Camera: bring extra batteries and memory cards

❏ Personal solar charging system (optional but recommended)

❏ Travel Clothes

❏ Duffel bags (2) with locks: To transport equipment

❏ Base Camp extra Items: Kindle, I pad, books, smart phone, etc

❏ Snack food: Please bring a few days of your favourite climbing snack food such as bars, energy gels, nuts, beef jerky, etc. A variety of salty and sweet is recommended to give you extra energy.

❏ Small personal first aid kit: Include athletic tape, Band-Aid’s, Ibuprofen, blister care, personal medications, etc

❏ Medications and Prescriptions: Bring antibiotics (Azithromycin, etc.), and altitude medicine such as Diamox and dexamethasone

Q 1: Has Gasherbrum V actually been climbed?

A: Yes, but only once. South Korean climbers Ahn Chi-young and Seong Nak-jong made the first ascent on 25 July 2014, alpine-style via a new line on the South Face (“Korean Direct”). Earlier attempts include a 1978 Japanese team that reached the East III sub-summit (7,006m) before a fatal fall ended the expedition, a 1980 French attempt, a 2010 Korean attempt on the West Face to 6,550m, and a 2011–12 French attempt on the South Face/Southwest Ridge to roughly 6,700m. As of our latest information, no second ascent has been publicly documented

Q 2:Is this a guided expedition, like your K2 or Nanga Parbat trips?

A: No. Gasherbrum V has no fixed camps, no rope-fixing team and no established normal route, so we cannot offer guided summit support the way we can on an 8,000m peak. We provide full Base Camp logistics — permits, porters, a Liaison Officer, kitchen staff and camp infrastructure — while your own team supplies its qualified technical leader and makes all climbing decisions above Base Camp

Q 3: What technical grade should I expect on the only known route?

A: The 2014 first-ascent route is graded WI4/5 M4: sustained snow-covered ice to roughly 70°, with a crux mixed rock-and-ice band above about 6,600m that is exposed to rockfall. This is genuine technical alpine terrain, not a walk-up snow slope, and it demands confident, fast movement on ice and mixed ground at altitude

Q 4: Do I need supplemental oxygen?

A: No. Gasherbrum V sits below the 8,000m threshold and has only ever been climbed without supplemental oxygen. We do not offer an oxygen add-on for this expedition.

Q 5:What prior experience do I need to join this expedition?

A: Because there is no fixed or guided route, we require a strong personal record of alpine-style ascents on technical ice and mixed terrain at altitude — ideally including prior 6,000–7,000m summits. This is not a suitable first high-altitude expedition.

Q 6: When is the best season to attempt Gasherbrum V?

June to August, the same summer window used across the Karakoram's Baltoro-side peaks. The 2014 first-ascent team spent close to two months in the region and still had to abandon their original objective (the Northeast Face) and change base camps mid-trip when conditions didn't cooperate — flexibility and patience matter as much as the calendar.

Q 7:How difficult is the approach trek to Base Camp?

A: The approach follows the same Baltoro Glacier route used for K2 and the Gasherbrum I/II expeditions — roughly 8 days of glacier trekking from Askole to Concordia, then a further day south via the Vigne Glacier to Gasherbrum V Base Camp (~4,770m). It is a serious high-altitude trek but not technical; solid trekking fitness and prior glacier-travel experience are what matter here.

Q 8: What permits are required, and how long does the process take?

A: All peaks above 6,500m require a climbing permit from the Gilgit-Baltistan Council, arranged through a registered Pakistani tour operator. The application typically needs 4–6 weeks to clear, so we recommend starting the paperwork at least two months before departure. The current royalty rate for Gasherbrum V will be confirmed at the time of booking

Q 9: Can I bring a personal high-altitude porter or Sherpa above Base Camp?

A: We can arrange a dedicated high-altitude porter to support load-carrying up to Base Camp and on acclimatization forays nearby, but we do not provide summit-guiding staff on the South Face itself — no such guided service exists on this route. Above Base Camp, your team operates independently.

Q 10: What happens if our team never gets a stable weather window?

A: This is a real possibility on an unguided alpine objective, and it happened to the first-ascent team as well before they eventually succeeded. Our base package includes a generous built-in buffer, and you can extend your stay at Base Camp on a per-day add-on rate if you want to keep waiting. There is no guarantee of a summit opportunity within any fixed itinerary on a route this weather-dependent.

Day 1

Arrive at Islamabad International Airport ⛰ 540m Our team will receive you at the international arrivals gate with a name placard and transfer you to your hotel. Please share inbound and outbound flight details at least 7 days before arrival, along with your technical climbing CV — prior 6,000–7,000m alpine-style ascents and ice/mixed-climbing grade history — for the Ministry of Tourism file. 🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 2

Expedition Briefing & Gear Check, Islamabad ⛰ 540m Formal briefing at the Ministry of Tourism / Alpine Club of Pakistan with your Liaison Officer (LO). Full personal and technical gear inspection, permit paperwork, and final packing of expedition food and climbing hardware. 🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 3

Fly Islamabad → Skardu ⛰ 2,498m ⏱ Scenic flight The spectacular morning flight over the Karakoram — on a clear day you can see Nanga Parbat from the aircraft. Free afternoon to acclimatize and stretch your legs around Skardu. 🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 4

Skardu — Final Preparations ⛰ 2,498m ⏱ Leisure day Final equipment and food packing for the trek and expedition. Staff complete government trekking/climbing permits and porter arrangements. 🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 5

Drive Skardu → Askole Village ⛰ 3,015m ⏱ 6–8 hours Jeep safari through the dramatic Shigar Valley, following the Braldu River to Askole, the last village on the route. Vehicles are left behind here — the trek begins on foot. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 6

Askole → Jhola via snout of Biafo Glacier ⛰ 3,103m 📍 20 km ⏱ 5–8 hours Porters load up and the trek begins. Cross the Biafo Glacier snout on moraine and camp at Jhola. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 7

Jhola → Paiju, following the Braldu River ⛰ 3,418m 📍 19.8 km ⏱ 6–7 hours The Braldu Gorge, with views of Trango Tower and Cathedral Peak. Paiju is the last camp with trees. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 8

Acclimatization & Rest Day — Paiju ⛰ 3,418m ⏱ Rest day A vital rest day before the glacier. Porters bake bread for the days ahead. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 9

Paiju → Khoburtse via Baltoro Glacier snout ⛰ 3,788m 📍 14.7 km ⏱ 5–7 hours First steps onto the Baltoro Glacier, with views of Trango Tower and Uli Biaho, to camp at Khoburtse. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 10

Khoburtse → Urdukas — Cross Two Small Glaciers ⛰ 3,905m 📍 6.4 km ⏱ 4–6 hours Two small glacier crossings reveal the first view of the Trango Towers. Camp at Urdukas. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 11

Urdukas → Goro II ⛰ 4,285m 📍 11.9 km ⏱ 6–8 hours Walk the medial moraine of the Baltoro with views south to Masherbrum (7,821m). Camp at Goro II. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 12

Goro II → Concordia — The Throne Room ⛰ 4,512m 📍 11.7 km ⏱ 5–7 hours Arrive at Concordia, the confluence of the Baltoro and Godwin-Austen Glaciers, with K2, Broad Peak and the Gasherbrums filling the horizon. 🏕 Camp — twin-sharing dome tent

Day 13

Concordia → Gasherbrum V Base Camp ⛰ ~4,770m ⏱ 6–7 hours Head south from Concordia, crossing several moraine ridges before turning up the flatter, less-crevassed Vigne Glacier to Gasherbrum V Base Camp. Porters and kitchen crew establish the full expedition camp. 🏕 Gasherbrum V Base Camp (~4,770m)

Day 14-49

Climbing Period — Acclimatization, Weather Watch & Summit Push ⛰ 4,770m – 7,147m ⏱ 36 days This entire block is led by your own team's judgement rather than a scripted rotation ladder. It opens with a puja ceremony and Base Camp settling-in, followed by acclimatization forays onto safe glacier and moraine terrain around Base Camp and toward the bergschrund (up to ~5,700m). The bulk of the period is an extended weather-window watch at Base Camp, waiting for the specific multi-day stable conditions the South Face demands. When a window opens, the team moves to the bergschrund and commits to the summit push — the South Face “Korean Direct” (WI4/5 M4): snow-covered ice to 70°, a mixed rock band above 6,600m, and a bivouac around 6,560m, typically 3 nights/4 days round trip. The first-ascent team's push from that bivouac to the summit and back took roughly 24 continuous hours through darkness and daytime avalanche activity. The block closes with recovery days back at Base Camp, including a rest bivouac used on the way down. ⛺ Gasherbrum V Base Camp / South Face

Day 50

Base Camp Pack-Up & Farewell to Gasherbrum V ⛰ ~4,770m ⏱ Half day Celebrations with the crew, pack down the expedition camp, and distribute staff tips. 🏕 Base Camp

Day 51

Gasherbrum V Base Camp → Concordia → Ali Camp ⛰ 4,800m approx. ⏱ 5–6 hours Retrace the Vigne Glacier to Concordia, then continue toward Ali Camp — named after the local porter who first crossed Gondogoro La. Evening refresher on crampon and ice-axe technique for the pass. 🏕 Camp at Ali Camp

Day 52

Cross Gondogoro La (5,585m) → Khuispang ⛰ 5,585m → 4,600m ⏱ Alpine start 2am Early wake-up for a roped ascent to the top of Gondogoro La — K2, Gasherbrum I & II and Broad Peak all visible at once. Descend on fixed ropes to Khuispang (4,600m). 🏕 Camp at Khuispang

Day 53

Khuispang → Saicho — Into the Hushe Valley ⛰ 3,350m ⏱ Half day Rocky mountain terrain gives way to the lush greens of the Hushe Valley. Camp at Saicho beside a glacial stream — your last night under canvas. 🏕 Camp at Saicho

Day 54

Trek to Hushe Village → Drive to Skardu ⛰ 3,050m → 2,498m ⏱ 5–7 hrs trek + 6 hrs drive Final trekking hours to Hushe village, then jeep transfer to Skardu via the Khaplu suspension bridge and the scenic Indus River road. 🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 55

Contingency Day / Rest in Skardu ⛰ 2,498m ⏱ Buffer day Built-in contingency for schedule slippage during the expedition. If unused, enjoy showers, laundry and a free day around Skardu. 🏠 Relax Inn or equivalent, Skardu

Day 56

Fly Skardu → Islamabad ⛰ 540m ⏱ Scenic flight Morning flight to Islamabad. If cancelled due to weather, the group drives to Chilas for an overnight stay. 🏠 Grand Islamabad / Envoy Hotel or equivalent

Day 57

Fly Home — Departure Day ⏱ Breakfast included Transfer to Islamabad International Airport for your onward flight. Hotel checkout by 12pm. Congratulations on completing the Gasherbrum V Expedition! ✈ Departure — transfer to airport

Gasherbrum V Expedition

Mountain climbing Gears

Mountaineering boots

Body Layers:

Headgear and Hand wear:

Personal Gear:

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